TOKYODANDY

グッチ×伝説の仕立て屋ダッパー・ダンのNYアトリエを 訪問

TOKYODANDY

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グッチダッパー・ダン」の第2章ローンチに先駆けて、ニューヨーク・ハーレムの伝説的テーラーであるダッパー・ダンと、マンハッタン・ソーホー地区にオープンしたアトリエ兼ショップに足を運んでみた。

Gucci's partnership with legendary tailor Dapper Dan culminated in the opening of Dap's new atelier in a classic Harlem brownstone earlier this year - the first major luxury brand presence in the area.

先週末のこと、ニューヨーク・ハーレムの歴史と文化を巡る「グッチ」のツアーに参加してきた。ハーレムの328ノレックス街に位置する老舗ソウルフード店「シルビアズ・レストラン」でのランチから、素手で骨つきチキンをワイルドに、一方の手にはワッフルを。そう、同時に食べるのを勧められ、冗談かと周りを見渡すと皆美味しそうにガブリついていた。コーンブレッドはどこか懐かしく。数々の有名アーティストを輩出した世界的に知られるエンターテイメント施設アポロ・シアター(クラブ)、歴史的ジャズクラブ・ミントンズ・プレイハウスから、文学界の偉人マヤ・アンジェロウとラングストン・ヒューズの2人のお宅へ。ディープすぎるハーレムの歴史と文化を知る街歩き。

We visited the appointment only studio last week as part of Gucci-led tour taking in the history and culture of the Harlem, from soul food eateries Sylvia's and Boulevard Bistro, world famous entertainment institutions the Apollo Theater and Minton's playhouse to the homes of literary greats Maya Angelou and Langston Hughes. It was a lesson in the breadth, depth and soul of a part of New York City that is often maligned.

ダッパー・ダンのアトリエ兼ショップでは、彼自身の幼少期のことや当時のハーレム事情などについて語ってくれた。(以下)時間が空いたときには、アトリエの外に出て人々に手を振り自らの口で伝え歩いてるそう、どこか日本的おもてなしも感じられる彼の人柄。

ラグジュアリーブランドのミックス/ブートレグ、1980年代初期のヒップホップスターたちをドレッシング、現在ではビヨンセが自身のツアーでGGパターンがプリントされた(Dapper Dan x Gucci)オーバーサイズのジャケットを着用してステージに登場するなど、伝説の80年代が再び到来。また、2019年に出版を予定している自叙伝では、これまでの彼の人生を赤裸々に明かすとのこと。記憶に残るあの言葉、識字率の低かった当時、ダンの父親も文字が読めなかったそう。初めてスーツの買い物に父親と出かけた時のこと、分割払いの書類が読めず息子ダンに見てくれと頼んできたそうで。書類確認後は金額と訴訟を起こさないよう父親に内容を告げ店を後に。その帰宅途中、父親は驚いた様子で「息子よ、おまえ読むことができるんだな」と彼に伝え感激した表情を見せたとか。その日からダンは、文字が読めることに感謝し、習得したことを頭につぎ込み、学習することを忘れず、行き詰まったらあらゆる本を読み返してきたんだそう。楽しみでならないダッパー・ダンの自叙伝。

グッチ〔ダッパー・ダン〕コラボレーション

Tokyo Dandy sat down to chat with Dapper Dan in the lounge of his atelier (pictured below). When he's not working there he's often found on the street outside, shaking hands and letting people know it's there. His personal success has lifted the whole area. From dressing the earliest Hip Hop stars of the 80's in remixed/bootlegs of luxury brands to dressing Beyonce in Dapper Dan x Gucci for her current tour, Dapper Dan is set to tell his story in a book to be published next year (and it's already been optioned as a feature film by Sony.) His book brings to mind one anecdote the self-taught tailor said to us that has really stuck with me. Daps told us abut the time he went with his dad to buy his first suit. They were going to pay in installments, Daps dad couldn't read the loan contract and asked Dap to look through it. Seeing how much extra it was going to cost them Dap told his dad not to bother getting the suit. On the way home his dad turned to him and said in amazement, 'Son, you can READ'. From that day on Dan took appreciation in that often taken for granted skill and read anything and everything he could. To this day he said 'I've never had a problem I couldn't read my way out of'. We look forward to reading HIS book.

See videos in our insta stories post here and see the first full collection by Dapper Dan and Gucci here.

Below is our captioned image tour of Harlem ...

View Gucci and Dapper Dan's new collection here

Dapper Dan's Harlem atelier in partnership with Gucci
Dapper Dan strolling across the street towards his atelier
Harlem Brownstones
A tour of Harlem with renowned architect and historian John Reddick, pictured here outside of Mount Morris Ascension Presbyterian Church
The former home of the legendary poet and civil rights activist Maya Angelou
Inside the home of the 'two Michaels'
An example of the antiques inside the home of the two Michaels.
At Sylvia's, the Queen of Soul food, on Malcolm X Boulevard.
We came for the food (corn bread, fried chicken and bloody mary's) and stayed for the family atmosphere thanks to Syvlia's granddaughter Tren'ness
Gucci fabrics for custom creations line the walls of Dapper Dan's atelier
Dapper Dan, then and now
The man himself wearing Gucci x Dapper Dan GG sunglasses
In conversation with Dapper Dan, his autobiography will be released next year. It promises to be an insightful look at Harlem, Hip-Hop, fashion and African American culture
Tokyo Dandy Dan in the Gucci wallpaper lined fitting rooms of Dapper Dan's atelier
Established in 1938, Minton's Playhouse
Before we took our seats, the supper setting at Minton's (great cocktails)
'Where Lady Day lays' mural played backdrop to a powerful performance by New Orleans Glen David Andrews
Brunch at Boulevard Bistro
Waiting for our fried chicken, jumbo shrimp and grits
Dapper Dan outside of his atelier
The exterior of the world famous Apollo Theater
Billy Mitchell aka 'Mr Apollo' takes us on a backstage tour
Artist Frances Stark's multi media exhibition at Gavin Brown enterprises gallery, Harlem
Joe and Sukezane-san at Gavin Brown Enterprises
Cinema seats at the back of Gucci Wooster, NYC
Gucci's new store, Wooster, NYC

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