「光の採石場」と称される南フランスのキャリエール ドゥ リュミエールをランウェイに、「シャネル(CHANEL)」が2021-22年クルーズコレクションを発表した。アーティスティック ディレクター ヴィルジニー・ヴィアール(Virginie Viard)の着想は、フランスの詩人で劇作家、映画監督のジャン・コクトー。
■採石場の跡地がランウェイに
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オンラインで発表されたコレクション映像の舞台となったキャリエール ドゥ リュミエールは、レ ボー=ドゥ=プロヴァンスに位置する石灰岩の採石場跡地。ジャン・コクトーが映画「オルフェの遺言」の撮影に活用したことで知られ、現在ではアート施設として使われている。
![キャリエール ドゥ リュミエール](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/chanel_2122cr_loc_010.jpg)
キャリエール ドゥ リュミエール
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ヴィルジニー・ヴィアールは、親交が深かったというガブリエル・シャネルとコクトーの関係性を辿ると共に、コクトーの映画作品に見られるシンプリシティと詩的な情景に触発されて今回のコレクションを制作した。
![キャリエール ドゥ リュミエール](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/chanel_2122cr_loc_009.jpg)
キャリエール ドゥ リュミエールの壁に映し出されたジャン・コクトーのモチーフ
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■光と影、バイカラーのコントラスト
コレクションの特徴は、白と黒のバイカラー。コクトーとシャネルが愛した光と影を、鮮明なコントラストで表現したという。黒一色のファーストルックをはじめ、ブラックケープ、フェザーをあしらったリトルブラックドレス、ホワイトのツイードジャケットやロングシャツドレスなどが登場。
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コレクション中盤のプリントは、シャネルのアパルトマンに飾られている寓話上のライオンやスフィンクス、鹿のオブジェを模して、白地に黒の線画で表現された。
![シャネル 2021-22年クルーズコレクション](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/chanel_2122cr_look_052.jpg)
Imaged by CHANEL
![シャネル 2021-22年クルーズコレクション](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/chanel_2122cr_look_055.jpg)
Imaged by CHANEL
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■ロックやパンクの要素、唇にもアクセサリー
コクトーの映画の前衛的な作風にならい、取り入れられたのはロックやパンクの要素。レザー、フィッシュネット、ビーズ、スパンコールがあしらわれたフリンジ、そしてモデルのローラ・ニコンをロックスターに見立てたプリントがスタイリングのスパイスとなった。また、チョーカーや重ね付けしたイヤーカフ、鼻や唇をピアスのように飾るアクセサリーがアクセントとなっている。
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■白い鳩がフィナーレに
フィナーレでモデル全員と共に登場したのは、コレクションのモチーフにも用いられていた白い鳩。パブロ・ピカソが描いた「平和の鳩」がよく知られているが、ピカソと親交のあったコクトーも鳩を描いている。石の宮殿のような空間から幸運の象徴とされる白い鳩が青空に放たれ、ラストシーンを飾った。
![シャネル 2021-22年クルーズコレクション](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/chanel_2122cr_finale_001.jpg)
フィナーレ
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