キム・ジョーンズ(Kim Jones)が「ディオール(DIOR)」のメンズ・クリエイティブ・ディレクターとして加入して5年。アニバーサリーイヤーとなった2024年サマーコレクションは、メゾンの歴代のデザイナーによるアーカイヴをコラージュし、メンズウェアとしてアップデートした。
驚きのオープニング
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フィジカルで行われるランウェイショーは、時に客席から自然と歓声や拍手が沸き起こる場面に出くわすことがある。今シーズンのディオールのメンズコレクションの幕開けは、まさにそんな驚きの瞬間をゲストらが共有することとなった。
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ランウェイを挟むように設けられた客席の間は不自然なほど幅広く、フロアにはうっすらと格子状の線が入っている。照明が明るく切り替わると、床のスクエアのパネルが開き、舞台装置によってモデルたちがせり上がって登場するという意表を突いた演出。コレクションで披露される全てのルックが冒頭で出揃った。
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歴代デザイナーやアイコンへのオマージュ
フロアに並んだモデルらが、一人ずつ歩き出してショーがスタートした。今シーズン、キムはメゾンの歴代のデザイナーたちにオマージュを捧げ、創設者のムッシュディオールはもちろん、イヴ・サン=ローラン、ジャンフランコ・フェレ、マルク・ボアンらが作り上げてきたシルエットやモチーフ、テクスチャーなどをコラージュし、コレクションを構成した。キーモチーフとなるのは、メゾンのアイコニックな「カナージュ」。1947年にムッシュディオールが初めて開いたサロンショーでゲストが座った籐編みの椅子の格子柄に由来するメゾンを代表するモチーフは、ニットやバッグ、コートなど随所に取り入れられた。
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そのほか、メゾンのアイコンだったミッツァ・ブリカールに由来するレオパード柄「ミッツァ」が差し込まれたり、厚底ローファーにはアイコンバッグ「レディ ディオール」のチャーム「オーバル」のパーツをあしらうなど、ディオールのコードが散りばめられている。
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ウィメンズウェアをメンズに変換
歴代のウィメンズのコレクションをインスピレーション源としながらも、キムの手が加えられることでモダンなメンズウェアに昇華。カラフルなネオンカラーのポロシャツはシャツの上にレイヤードされ、テーラードジャケットにはレザーのハリントンジャケットやカーディガンを羽織ったり、ショートパンツとソックスの組み合わせなど、軽やかでポップなメンズのサマーウェアとしてエディットされている。カーディガンやシャツに施された手の込んだビジュー刺繍は、ドレスアップアイテムとして華やかさを添える。
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キャッチーなビーニーはコレクションのテーマでもある「ニューウェーブ」をハットデザイナーのスティーブン・ジョーンズが再解釈。コケードと呼ばれる花形帽章の代わりに、中国唐時代の花飾り「絨花」をデザインし、彩りとプレイフルなひねりが加えられた。
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キムにとって、過去のウィメンズウェアを紐解き、メンズウェアに落とし込むプロセスは「ひとつのカルチャー」だという。「フェンディ(FENDI)」でウィメンズを手掛けているキムなら尚更、メンズ・ウィメンズ間の往来は日常的なライフワークなのだろう。フェミニンからマスキュリンへ、サロンからストリートへ、「ニュールック」から「ニューウェーブ」へーー。自身のエッセンスを加えながら行うこの変換作業の妙こそが、キム・ジョーンズがキム・ジョーンズたる所以なのかもしれない。
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日本からはあのサッカー選手や俳優も
ショー会場にはASTROのチャウヌ、 BALVIN、アポー(Nattawin Wattanagitiphat)、マイル、ロモン、MALUMAに加え、日本からは俳優の竹内涼真やサッカー日本代表の田中碧が来場。フィナーレはスタンディングオベーションとなり、キムのアニバーサリーコレクションを祝福した。
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