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IMAGE by: me
デザイナーの坂部三樹郎が学長を務めるファッションスクール「me」が初めて開催したショーを見てまず「意外と地味だな」と驚いた。それは決して悪い意味ではなく、生々しくリアリティがあり、素直なクリエイテイビティの発露に素直に好感を抱いた。飾らない若手デザイナーたちのリアリズムが垣間見えるショーには、日本のファッション教育現場のリアルが滲むようだった。
日本の若手デザイナーたちの多くは、海外デザイナーのクリエイションに憧れ洋服を志すものの、いざ自分が洋服をデザインするという立場に立った時、まず初めに洋装を選択する理由の正当性を問われる。西洋で研究し尽くされているテーラリングの美しさに真正面から日本人デザイナーが向き合うことには、それ相応の理由が求められる。西洋の土俵で戦わざるを得ないものを作ろうとす姿勢に対して、業界人や先輩デザイナーたちの目は厳しい。結局日本から発信されるファッションは西洋のカウンターカルチャーとしての側面が強く、その中でいかにインディペンデントなクリエイションを確立するか、という視点から、教育現場でのアウトプットは特に自身のパーソナルなオリジナリティを大胆に提示するアートピース的な作品を発表する作家が多い印象を抱いていた。大袈裟に内面を曝け出して見えてくる自分のクリエイションを削ぎ落とし洗練性を磨いしていくのが、多くのデザイナーの歩く道だと感じていたのだ。しかし意外にも、様々な業界関係者が一堂に会し、若手デザイナーたちにとって自己紹介の場でもあるmeのショーには、自身の芯の部分だけをシンプルに纏ったルックが多く登場し、その姿には潔さと自信のようなものが感じられた。
ADVERTISING
ショーのテーマは「Lighe House(=灯台)」。ショー会場となった原宿の八角館では、東京クリエイティブサロンの支援のもと、東京のファッションウィークのオフィシャルスケジュールを飾るブランドたちのショーと同様のプロたちが運営を支えていた。
コンクリート壁の無機質な空間のなかにピアノの音が流れ、夕陽のような強いオレンジの光が照りつける。会場では、モデルたちは光を背に歩き出し、光に向かって帰っていく。山田琢也が手掛ける「タクヤヤマダ(TAKUYA YAMADA)」に始まり、並木未来の「ミクナミキ(MIku Namiki)」、佐藤仁美とイム・グンテ(Lim twea)の「サット(sat)」、林陸人の「タロンオー(Talons O)」、稲垣里梨の「スキクラブ(SKICLUB)」を着用したモデルが順に登場した後暗転し、一転して冷たく青白い光の中で、水谷和章の「アンダーザデスク(UNDERTHEDESK)」が締めくった。
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Talons O
Imaged by me
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UNDERTHEDESK
Imaged by me
フィナーレで流れたのは、映画「ジョーカー」で主人公のアーサーが自身の本音の感情に向き合うシーンで印象的に用いられるフランク・シナトラ("Frank" Sinatra)版の「That's life」。その歌詞で語られる人生は、クリエイターの生き方そのものでもあるように感じる。
I've been a puppet, a pauper, a pirate, a poet, a pawn and a king
(私は操り人形であり、貧乏人であり、海賊や詩人、歩兵や王様でもあった)
ショーのステートメントの隅には「灯台下暗し」の文字があった。毎日家路をただ歩くように淡々と、先のわからない未来に向けて己が信じるクリエイションの灯火だけを頼りに歩きながらも、足元に転がる自分自身の本質を拾い上げ、手のひらを見つめ肯定しながらクリエイションに向き合っているのだろう。そういった等身大の眼差しから生まれるファッションデザインは、飾らなくとも本人たちのパーソナリティを色濃く表す。
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TAKUYAYAMADA
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MIku Namiki
Image by me
反抗期のデザイナー自身の暗く荒れた部屋に差し込む光のようだったという愛犬との時間のように、暗い中に差し込む尊いものとしての服を捉えるタクヤヤマダ、「厳格さと憧れ」をテーマにしたミクナミキ、企業デザイナーとしての経験などファッションデザインを仕事にすることの難しさに苦悩する葛藤と希望を落とし込んだサット、不安定な少年期の精神状態や田舎への執着と都会へ憧れが滲むタロンオー、現代社会をもがきながら生きる少女たちの等身大の幸せと憧れを描いたスキクラブ、深夜アルバイト生活の中に清貧さを見出したというアンダーザデスク。
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sat
Image by me
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Talons O
Image by me
発表したデザイナー6人が挙げるコンセプトに通じているのは、ままならない現実の中で等身大の目線から見つめる希望や憧れだ。暗いムードの社会の中で、決して恵まれない環境を強いられている現代の10代、20代のデザイナーは特に、自分が自分らしく生きていくために必要な皮膚としての服を切実に模索する姿勢が見られる。リアルクローズとしての彼らの提案は生々しく若手デザイナーたちの求める東京のファッションを提示しているようだった。
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SKICLUB
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UNDERTHEDESK
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ファッションショーというブランドの世界観を描き出すための装置に、複数のブランドが参加することで起きるかと思われたハレーションは、様々な若手デザイナーたちの葛藤と未来への渇望が多層に組み合わさることで「Lighe House」というテーマをクリティカルに描き出す。
準備までの負担が膨大なことを理由にショーを避けるブランドもある中で、ショー形式で在校生の作品を表現するmeの姿勢には、「ファッションデザイナー」として場数を踏ませて学ばせるmeのスパルタ的な教育方針が見て取れる。歌舞伎役者の中村勘三郎の「型があるから型破り。型が無ければ単なる形無し」という言葉を借りるなら、一度型を学ばせ、そこから当人たちのオリジナリティを持ってその型を破ることを期待する(=破れないようでは大成できない)という態度を表明し、在校生たちもその期待に答えようとしている熱量がある。
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Imaged by me
デザイナーないしそれを志す人間というのは本当に繊細で、その繊細さを失っては当人らしいクリエイションから遠のいていく生き物なのだから、彼らが真のオリジナリティを獲得し開花するための「教育」には、その柔い部分をいかに守りながらも曝け出させる優しやと牽引力が求められる。meが立ち上がって約5年。今回のショーはその成果が形を持って現れ始めた萌芽のようであり、自分にとってのリアリティを携えてもがき続けている日本で育つ新しい才能たちが、新たな時代のムードを作ろうとする機運が感じ取れた。彼らにとってのリアルクローズが、ストリートのリアルになる日はそう遠くない気がしている。
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