シャネル 2023年春夏オートクチュール
IMAGE by: CHANEL
ヴィルジニー・ヴィアール(Virginie Viard)が手掛ける「シャネル(CHANEL)」が、2023年春夏オートクチュールコレクションをパリで発表した。フランス人アーティストのグザヴィエ・ヴェイヤン(Xavier Veilhan)との3度目のコラボレーションとなり、会場には11体の動物たちのモニュメントが立ち並んだ。
シャネルの愛した動物たち
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今回のインスピレーション源となったのは、カンボン通り31番地にあるガブリエル・シャネル(Gabrielle Chanel)のアパルトマン。そこにはライオン、犬、鹿、鳥、ラクダなどのオブジェや彫刻、ドローイングなどのコレクションが収められているという。「グザヴィエには、アパルトマンの動物たちの寓話を再解釈し、彼自身の世界に取り入れてもらいたいと依頼した。コレクション全体にかかる装飾も、動物の世界から派生したものだ」とヴィアールは語る。
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Imaged by CHANEL
ショーに先駆け公開されたティーザーは「ファンタジーへの旅」と名付けられ、巨大な鳥のモニュメントからモデルのヴィヴィアン・ローナー(Vivienne Rohner)が登場。アパルトマンの一室で古い本を開くとコーギーや馬などが現れ、ファンタジーに引き込まれるというストーリーだ。
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Image by Xavier Veilhan, Ola Rindal
パレードのバトンガールのように
ショーが始まると、木や厚紙、紙で作られた巨大な動物たちの中からモデルが登場。この遊び心あふれる演出についてヴィアールは「予期せぬ変化が起きることが好き」と語る。よく見れば、子猫、コーギー、ウサギ、ツバメや鹿といった動物が刺繍されており、ショート丈のツイードスーツやコートドレスにチャーミングなアクセントを加えている。
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トップハットやボウタイ、タキシードシャツといった要素も目を引いたが、これはパレードやショーで見られる女性のユニフォームのコードを引用したものだそう。白のグローブやレースアップブーツ、テール付きのジャケットなどはバトンガールを連想させた。
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ツバメの刺繍があしらわれたマリエ
後半に登場したドレスは、生地のレイヤードや透け感がポイントに。シルクチュール、タフタ、オーガンザ、シャンテリーレースなどを贅沢に取り入れ、軽やかなルックを作り上げた。
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Image by CHANEL
そしてフィナーレにゾウのモニュメントから飛び出てきたのは、ツバメの刺繍があしらわれたミニドレスをまとった花嫁。ベールにもツバメが羽ばたいており、若々しくチャーミングなルックに仕上がっていた。
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Imaged by CHANEL
豪華ゲストが来場
会場にはBIGBANGのメンバーであるG-DRAGON、ティルダ・スウィントン(Tilda Swinton)、マリオン・コティヤール(Marion Cotillard)、ヴァネッサ・パラディ(Vanessa Paradis)、ルーシー・ボイントン(Lucy Boynton)らの姿も。日本からはシャネル フレグランス&ビューティ/ウォッチ&ファイン ジュエリーのアンバサダーである宮沢氷魚と二階堂ふみが来場し、ファンタジックなシャネルの世界観を堪能した。
![G-DRAGON](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2023/01/23sscouture_chanel_g-dragon-2-LD.jpg)
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