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着物の変遷を辿る展覧会がメトロポリタン美術館で開催、能の衣装や絹織物などを紹介

壁に描かれたテキスト

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

壁に描かれたテキスト

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

着物の変遷を辿る展覧会がメトロポリタン美術館で開催、能の衣装や絹織物などを紹介

壁に描かれたテキスト

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

 着物ファッションの歴史を辿る展覧会「着物スタイル:ジョン・C・ウェバーコレクション展(Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection)」が、ニューヨークのメトロポリタン美術館で開催されている。期間は2023年2月20日まで。美術愛好家のジョン・C・ウェバーのコレクションや、同美術館のコスチューム・インスティチュートのコレクションを展示している。

 同展では14世紀の室町時代から20世紀後半までの日本のファッションを対象に、能と狂言に着用されている衣装や15世紀頃から19世紀半ばにかけて制作された陣羽織、20世紀初頭に人気を博した平織した絣の絹織物 銘仙などを紹介。江戸時代の衣服のパターンと染色技術や、徳川幕府崩壊後に起きた日本のファッションシステムの近代化、20世紀後半から日本と西洋の両方でファッションのインスピレーション源となった着物の構造などを公開している。

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 会場では西洋のクチュール、日本絵画、浮世絵、工芸品とともに、紳士服、子ども服を含む60点以上の着物を展示。日常生活の衣服からマドレーヌ・ヴィオネ(Madeleine Vionnet)やクリストバル・バレンシアガ(Cristóbal Balenciaga)といったファッションデザイナーに影響を与える存在となった着物ファッションの変遷を紐解く。

■Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection:公式サイト

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壁に描かれたテキスト

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

3
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

10
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

12
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

14
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

17
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

18
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

20
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

21
部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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部屋に展示された作品

Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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着物の前面

Noh costume (atsuita) with checkered ground and chrysanthemums in stream. Edo period (1615–1868), 18th century. Twill-weave silk with silk supplementary weft patterning. 54 x 53 in. (137 x 134.6 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Image © The Metropolitan Muse

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着物の前面

Summer robe (hito-e) with court carriage and waterside scene. Edo period (1615–1868), early 19th century. Gauze-weave silk with stencil paste-resist dyeing, stencil-dyed dots (suri-bitta), hand-painted details, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread. 72

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着物の前面

Over robe (uchikake) with Genji wheels and wild ginger leaves. Edo period (1615–1868), early 19th century. Figured satinweave silk (rinzu) with silk embroidery and couched gold thread. 68 x 46 1/4 in. (172.7 x 117.5 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Image ©

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着物の前面

Obi (kakeshita-obi) with shell-matching game boxes. Edo period (1615–1868), late 18th century. Satin-weave silk with silk embroidery and couched gold thread. 10 in. x 12 ft. 6 in. (25.4 x 381 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Image © The Metropolitan Museum

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解体した化粧台

Cosmetic stand (kushi-dai) with pine, bamboo, and cherry blossom from a wedding set. Edo period (1615–1868), early 19th century. Lacquered wood with gold, silver takamaki-e, hiramaki-e, cut-out gold foil application on nashiji ground. H. 10 5/8 in. (27 cm

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屏風のデザイン

Beauty of the Kanbun era. Edo period (1615–1868), late 17th century. Hanging scroll; ink, color, and gold on paper. Image: 24 1/8 x 9 5/8 in. (61.3 x 24.4 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Mary Griggs Burke Collection, Gift of the Mary and Jackson Burk

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屏風のデザイン

Hon’ami Kōetsu (Japanese, 1558–1637). Poem from the Meager Gleanings (Shūi gusō). Edo period (1615–1868), ca. late 1620s–early 1630s. Hanging scroll; ink on paper with mica, mounted with tsujigahana silk. Image: 7 7/8 x 6 5/8 in. (20 x 16.8 cm). John C. W

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日本画のデザイン

Torii Kiyonaga (Japanese, 1752–1815). Enjoying the evening cool on the banks of the Sumida River. Edo period (1615– 1868), ca. 1784. Diptych of woodblock prints (nishiki-e); ink and color on paper. Dimensions: A: H. 15 in. (38.1 cm); W. 10 in. (25.4 cm).

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日本画のデザイン

Hishikawa Moronobu (Japanese, 1618–1694). A visit to the Yoshiwara (detail). Edo period (1615–1868), 1680s. Handscroll; ink, color, and gold on paper. 21 5/16 in. x 57 ft. 9 7/16 in. (54.1 x 1761.4 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Photo by John Bigelow Tayl

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着物の前面

Battle surcoat (jinbaori) with tattered fan. Edo period (1615– 1868), early 19th century. Wool (rasha). 34 1/2 x 28 1/2 in. (87.6 x 72.4 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photo by Paul Lachenauer

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着物の前面

Fireman’s jacket (hikeshi-banten) with Shogun Tarō Yoshikado. Edo period (1615–1868), mid-19th century. Quilted cotton with tube-drawn paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) with hand-painted details. 36 x 49 in. (91.4 x 124.5 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Ima

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屏風のデザイン

Utagawa (Gountei) Sadahide (1807–1878/79). Banner with Shōki, the Demon Queller. Edo period (1615–1868), 1840s. Ink and color on cotton. 68 1/8 x 37 3/8 in. (173 × 95 cm). John C. Weber Collection. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photo by Paul Lac

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日本画のデザイン

Yōshū (Hashimoto) Chikanobu (Japanese, 1838–1912). “Court Ladies Sewing Western Clothing” (Jokan yōfuku saihō no zu). Meiji period (1868–1912), August 23rd, 1887. Triptych of woodblock prints (nishiki-e); ink and color on paper. Image: 14 5/16 x 29 11/16

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日本画のデザイン

Inoue Yasuji (Japanese, 1864–1889). “Peaceful Pleasures of the Highest Nobility” (Kyōraku taihei kiken zu). Meiji period (1868–1912), 1887. Triptych of woodblock prints (nishiki-e); ink and color on paper. Image : 14 3/8 x 29 3/8 in. (36.5 x 74.6 cm). The

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服を纏ったマネキン

Coat, Iida & Co./Takashimaya (Japanese, founded 1831). ca. 1900. Silk. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Joseph L. Brotherton, 1985 (1985.362.2). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photo by Paul Lachenauer

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服を纏ったマネキン

“Paris” coat, Paul Poiret (French, Paris 1879–1944 Paris). 1919. Silk, wool, metallic thread. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.207). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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着物の前面

Summer kimono (hito-e) with swirls. Taishō (1912–26)–Shōwa period (1926–89), 1920s–30s. Printed gauze-weave (ro) silk with twisted wefts. 60 13/16 × 45 in. (154.5 × 114.3 cm). Promised Gift of John C. Weber. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photo b

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着物の前面

Meisen kimono with water droplets. Shōwa period (1926–89), ca. 1930–40. Plain-weave reeled-silk warps with machine-spun silk wefts in double ikat (heiyō-gasuri). 59 x 49 1/4 in. (149.9 x 125.1 cm). Promised Gift of John C. Weber. Image © The Metropolitan

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着物の前面

Meisen kimono with large checkered pattern. Shōwa period (1926–89), ca. 1930s. Plain-weave machine-spun silk in resistdyed large ikat (ōgasuri) with gold-thread weft. 57 x 47 in. (144.8 x 119.4 cm). Promised Gift of John C. Weber. Image © The Metropolitan

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着物の前面

Man’s under kimono (nagajuban) with Mount Fuji. Shōwa period (1926–89), second quarter 20th century. Plain-weave silk with stitched tie-dyeing. 53 9/16 × 52 3/4 in. (136 × 134 cm). Promised Gift of John C. Weber. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ph

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着物の前面

Child’s winter kimono with Mickey Mouse. Shōwa period (1926–89), ca. 1930s. Plain-weave cotton with roller printing. 35 7/16 x 35 7/16 in. (90 x 90 cm). Promised Gift of John C. Weber. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photo by Paul Lachenauer

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服を纏ったマネキン

Evening wrap, House of Balenciaga (French, founded 1937), Cristobal Balenciaga (Spanish, 1895–1972). 1951. Silk. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Baroness Philippe de Rothschild, 1973 (1973.21.3). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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服を纏ったマネキン

Sweater, Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969). Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942). 1983. Wool. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2019 (2019.153). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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服を纏ったマネキン

Coat, Yohji Yamamoto (Japanese, born Tokyo, 1943). Spring/summer 1983. Cotton. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2011 (2011.288). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

47
服を纏ったマネキン

"UKIYOE," Hanae Mori (Japanese, born 1926). Fall/winter 1983–84. Silk, glass. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Hanae Mori, 2004 (2004.467.4) Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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服を纏ったマネキン

Coat dress, Maison Margiela (French, founded 1988). John Galliano (British, born Gibraltar, 1960). Fall/winter 2015–16, Artisanal. Polyester, cotton. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Maison Margiela, in honor of Harold Koda, 2016 (2016.401a–c). Ima

49
服を纏ったマネキン

Coat, Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969). Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942). Spring/summer 2018. Polyester, nylon. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Various Donors, by exchange, 2018 (2018.650a–c). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Pen (ペン) 「特集:メトロポリタン美術館のすべて」〈2022年3月号〉 [雑誌]

Pen (ペン) 「特集:メトロポリタン美術館のすべて」〈2022年3月号〉 [雑誌]

著: ペン編集部
メーカー: 株式会社CCCメディアハウス
発売日: 2022/01/28
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Installation view of Kimono Style: The John C. Weber Collection, on view June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo by Bruce Schwarz, Courtesy of The Met

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