VALENTINO、LOEWE、CELINE、STELLA McCARTNEY、ROKH
コロナ時代に突入して2シーズン目となる2021-22年秋冬コレクション。ファッションデザイナーはパンデミック下で何を考え、どんなスタイルを提案したのか。4つ目に注目するトレンド、キーワードは「カットアウト」。
意外な露出
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"カットアウト=切り抜き"の手法は様々な形でデザインに用いられている近年のトレンドのひとつだが、今シーズンの特徴は意外性。幾何学模様や切り絵のようなカッティング、脇腹や腰、腕の付け根といった意外な部分の肌見せによって、シンプルなフォルムに新鮮味を与えている。
さらに、極端に短いジャケットやローライズのパンツ、マイクロミニとブーツの組み合わせなど、カットオフ(切断)することによって肌を露出するアイテムが多く提案されている。シーズンレスの傾向が顕著に見られるとともに、ありのままの自分を愛するボディポジティブのムーブメントを背景としたヘルシーな肌見せが特徴だ。
・肌見せ&レイヤード:セリーヌ
エディ・スリマン(Hedi Slimane)が手掛ける「セリーヌ(CELINE)」のウィメンズコレクションは、先シーズンに引き続きフレンチとアメカジを融合。短丈のワンショルダーや脇をカットオフした変形カットソーで肌を露出しつつ、クラシカルなジャケットやコートをレイヤードした。合わせたジーンズにはダメージ加工の穴あきも見られる。
![CELINE](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/CELINE-2021winter-re-003.jpeg)
CELINE
![CELINE](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/CELINE-2021winter-re-004.jpeg)
CELINE
・陰影とコントラスト:ヴァレンティノ
モノクロームのコレクションを発表した「ヴァレンティノ(VALENTINO)」は、カットアウトの多様なアプローチでコントラストを表現。白シャツに陰影を落とすように、スラッシュが施されたニットや網目状のアウターを重ねた。
![VALENTINO](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/VALENTINO-2021aw-womens-007-1.jpeg)
VALENTINO
![VALENTINO](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/VALENTINO-2021aw-womens-011-1.jpeg)
VALENTINO
![VALENTINO](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/VALENTINO-2021aw-womens-015-1.jpeg)
VALENTINO
・隠れトライアングル:プラダ
ミウッチャ・プラダ(Miuccia Prada)とラフ・シモンズ(Raf Simons)による2シーズン目の「プラダ(PRADA)」。コートの首元を留めると、象徴的なトライアングルロゴを彷彿とさせる逆三角形の隙間が現れる仕掛け。前回はチーズのような穴あきトップスがアイコニックだったが、今回は控えめでユニークな主張となっている。
![PRADA](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/PRADA-2021aw-womens-full-016.jpeg)
PRADA
![PRADA](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/PRADA-2021aw-womens-full-017.jpeg)
PRADA
様々な「カットアウト」&「カットオフ」スタイル
![3.1 Phillip Lim](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/31PhillipLim-04collction-001.jpeg)
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![LOEWE](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/LOEWE-2021aw-womens-015.jpeg)
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![ROKH](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/ROKH-2021aw-002.jpeg)
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![STELLA McCARTNEY](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2021/05/STELLAMcCARTNEY-2021aw-019.jpeg)
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3.1 Phillip Lim
2021-22年秋冬コレクショントレンド特集
01: 煌めく「スパークル」
02: よりタイトに「セカンドスキン」
03: 好景気のサイン?「マイクロミニ」
04: 意外な露出「カットアウト」
05: 包み込むシルエット「コクーニング」
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