EXQUISITE GUCCI
IMAGE by: GUCCI
「グッチ(GUCCI)」は2年ぶりにミラノ・ファッション・ウィークに参加し、"EXQUISITE GUCCI"と題したランウェイショーを発表した。「アディダス(adidas)」とのコラボレーション「adidas x Gucci」の発表や、リアーナ(Rihanna)とエイサップ・ロッキー(A$AP Rocky)カップルの来場などが話題になった。印象的だった鏡の会場演出をはじめ、今季の着想源やクリエイションについて解説する。
歪んだ“鏡”が作り出す異世界
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会場となったグッチ本社のグッチハブは、歪んだ鏡に囲まれた光が反射する空間。クリエイティブ・ディレクターのアレッサンドロ・ミケーレ(Alessandro Michele)は、インスピレーション源として13世紀に生まれた、中世最大の百科事典とされる「大いなる鑑(Speculum majus)」を挙げている。鏡について同事典では「知識を得るために不可欠な道具である」と述べられているが、アレッサンドロは鏡が持つ別の特性を考察。それは、1600年代の反射光学の論文に記された"魔法の鏡"について。アレッサンドロは「私は魔法の鏡の比喩を用いて、幻影のようなファッションの力、ファブリックから発せられる神聖な力にアプローチした。多様なものを取り入れて、変換し、風を通して、繋いでいくことは、世界と意味を並列すること。固定観念を変えること。洋服は光学実験室であり、変容をもたらし、魅惑を取り戻す魔法の装置である」と語っている。
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英国ファッションと 80年代のロックスターの要素
今季も、アレッサンドロが得意とするジェンダーの垣根を超えたスタイルが強い。肌を透かしたメッシュトップスを着用するメンズモデルがいれば、メンズのスーツを着こなすウィメンズモデルも登場した。ファーストルックは、ダブルブレストの濃紺スーツのセットアップ。今季は、英国の伝統的なファッションにヒントを得ており、テーラリング、タータンやグレンチェックの柄などを多用した。また1980年代のロックスターを彷彿とさせるスタイルも特徴的。肩パッドを入れて誇張したタキシード、エコファーを襟や袖にあしらったコート、メタリックのオールインワン、スパンコールの総刺繍のセットアップなど、尖ったスタイルを多く提案。光沢感のある素材使いやアクセサリーは光に反射してキラキラ輝き、着想源の鏡のアイデアとリンクする。
![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_16_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-529.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_14_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-473.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_52_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1668.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/57_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1796.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_70_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-2269.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_77_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-2453.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_78_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-2482.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI”](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_79_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-2511.jpg)
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EXQUISITE GUCCI
Image by GUCCI
アディダスとの“テーラードストリートウェア”
ショーの目玉となった「adidas x Gucci」では、アディダスのアイコニックな「スリーストライプス」(三本線)、「トレフォイル」(三つ葉)が目印だ。テーラードスーツとトラックスーツを融合したジャケットとパンツのセットアップをはじめ、トップス、ニット、ドレス、コート、バッグ、シューズ、グローブ、ハットに至るまで、幅広いラインナップ。カラーは、ブルー、ネイビー、レッド、グリーンなどアディダスの伝統色を用いているのもポイント。コレクションの色濃い要素であるテーラードとストリートを掛け合わせた"テーラードストリートウェア"が中心だが、ゴージャスなヴィクトリアンのロングドレス、コルセットにも姿を変える。
![adidas x Gucci](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_07_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-262.jpg)
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![adidas x Gucci](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_39_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1260.jpg)
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![adidas x Gucci](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_25_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-874.jpg)
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adidas x Gucci
Image by GUCCI
足元はアディダスコラボのオンパレード
シューズもアディダスコラボが勢揃い。代表的なスニーカー「ガゼル (Gazelle)」をアレンジしたカラフルな配色モデルのほか、ヒールスニーカーやウェッジソールのヒールスニーカーなどがお目見え。レザーのロングブーツにも象徴的なスリーストライプスが施された。コンサバティブなシューズとスポーツ要素の掛け合わせが新鮮だ。
![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_32_MG24985.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_19_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-665.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_34_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1123.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_73_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-2336.jpg)
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スタッズで装飾したバッグ
グッチのルーツであるトラベルバッグをはじめ、バンブーハンドルの「ダイアナ」や「ジャッキー 1961」「ホースビット 1955」など。スタッズで"GUCCI"の名前を入れたバッグやショルダーストラップも目を引く。またアディダスのスリーストライプスのデザインを取り入れたデザインも登場した。
![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_12_MG24774.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/25_MG24914.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/28_MG24951.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/38_MG25039.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/39_MG25043.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/45_MG25095.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/20_MG24858.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_07_MG24733.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_15_MG24806.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_17_MG24822.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/33_MG24994.jpg)
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![](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/51_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1643.jpg)
![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/51_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1643.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/53_MG25158.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/55_MG25173.jpg)
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![](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/67_MG25275.jpg)
![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/67_MG25275.jpg)
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![EXQUISITE GUCCI](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/79_MG25353.jpg)
![](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/67_MG25275.jpg)
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Image by GUCCI
絶妙なバランスの魅力
グッチは、コレクション名に"春夏"や"秋冬"といったシーズン名を付けず、独自の題名をショータイトルに加えており、今季の"EXQUISITE" は「この上なく素晴らしい」「絶妙な」を意味する言葉。コラボの話題性はもちろん、スポーツ、コンサバティブ、ロック、センシュアル、ロマンチックなど、異なる要素を絶妙なバランスでミックスし、強いクリエイションを見せた。
![](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_34_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-1108.jpg)
![](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1088/article/images/2022/03/220308_75_20220225_GUCCI_RUNWAY-2386.jpg)
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